Fallen Giants – Week 4 Response

Week 4 – Reading Response

By: Bryant Lymburn

In the first half of the book, Fallen Giants, it describes various journeys of mountain expeditions to the Greater Ranges. The book picks up in the later half of the 18th Century and predominately starts with the British intrigue and push into the mountains. This intrigue began in the Alps and soon pushes to the higher heights of Eastern Europe then into the Greater ranges of Asia (the Karakorum and Himalayas). Upon reading into the “classical” era of Himalayan Mountaineering (1900-1940) numerous attempts were made to summit, various peaks. Many proved successful, but non of the 8000 meter peaks fell during this duration. Of all these expeditions to conquer these peaks something peculiar was noticed. Of all the people who ventured to these far-reaching places it became apparent that all were in the upper echelon of society. All these members either grew up in wealth, married into wealth, or convinced others of wealth to help fund their expeditions. Using the siege tactic on these mountains proved to be very inefficient and luxurious ventures which were of great cost. This expense limited the class of people who were entering the mountains. Although these people could afford to make theses grand ventures with all the supplies imaginable into the remote mountains of the Himalayas and Karakorum many were ill prepared mentally and lacked the knowledge needed for such extreme conditions. It could be argued that there were people who possessed greater climbing skills and had a better attitude in such conditions. However these people were often never considered due to the limited economic situations. Economic status only played a role in determining who was entering these mountainous ranges.

This control was also determined by the climbing clubs of each country and governments of Britain, India, Tibet, and Nepal. These climbing clubs became exclusive places in the climbing community and very aristocratic pockets and niches that were hard to enter and gain respect in. The climbing clubs were hard to gain a reputation and respect in as well once broken into. The climbing clubs would also not fund ventures unless there was some knowledge to be gained in the excursion. Much of this knowledge came from filling in the blank spots on maps and mapping in peaks and triangulating their elevation. Governments of Nepal and Britain were largely in control of these regions. Nepal largely cut-off all access to their territory and this made climbing some of the prominent peaks difficult by cutting off certain aspects and faces of the mountains. During the early half of the century Britain was in control of the trade routes of Calcutta and this helped to determine who entered the greater Himalaya range. How is it that Britain were the ones to determine who entered and left the mountains? Why do the Local cultures not get a say in it? Nepal was strong enough to turn away British influence, why didn’t India?

As other countries began to enter the 8000 meter peak zone a great influx in mountaineers were subject to the unpredictability of the region. Many expeditions encountered fatalities upon these dangerous slopes. It was odd that many of the climbers had no remorse for the Sherpas and comrades they lost along the way. I understand that they accept that risk in this occupation, but there should have been some larger ceremonies or other acknowledgement to these fallen members. Maybe it was the altitude disrupting emotional levels of the mind, but this will remain uncertain.

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