True Summit, Week 13

Much like a commanding general, Maurice Herzog took all the glory to be held for climbing the first 8,000 meter peak. Fifty years later, David Roberts reevaluated the mountaineering classic and attempted to spread the fame. Roberts, being Krakauer’s mentor, showed a very similar style in the way he presented his books, primarily as an author first and a mountaineer second; this allowed him to write a compelling book with real insight about mountaineering. Attempting to bring the truth to light in some of mountaineering’s greatest historical events, he gave credit where it was due. Robert’s evaluation of the 1950 expedition of Annapurna could change the way people are inspired about mountain climbing.

Roberts reexamination of Herzog treacherous tale of the first ascent of an 8,000 meter peak gave glory to more people than the glorious leader, known as Herzog. Roberts gave justice to the other mountaineers on the expedition and forced the realization to the fans of Annapurna that it was not only Herzog that climbed during the historic 1950 expedition. Such individuals, like Lachenal, were taking every step right next the Herzog, yet, were barely mentioned in Annapurnas account of the climb (137). Showing blimps of both Herzog’s and other expedition members experience of climbing in The Alps, brought it back to face with Herzog’s account of an event where it seemed his leadership propelled him forwards, when indeed it was the experience of the men on his “brotherhood of the rope.”  It was pointed out that most members of the Expedition went on to accomplish great mountaineering feats all over the world, but Herzog “glory” won him a relatively easy life of political office and several private jobs that seemed a little too cushy. Roberts goal is not to simply dilute the claims that Herzog made, rather using them to exemplify his point that Herzog was not the soul climber. Roberts was not trying to discredit the famed glory of Herzog’s heroics, but allow others to share the limelight of fame that was so richly deserve.

Roberts has written several other books about famed Mountaineers tales, like the lose of Mallory on Everest in the 1920’s. He even has written some books on the ancient civilization of the Pueblo People of in Colorado and New Mexico; he is attempting to spread knowledge and challenge people’s ideas of single source account of historical events. A true historian of great mountaineers in not just the Himalayas, but all over the world, from the himalayas, to Alaska, to Iceland. Roberts developed a new breed of mountaineering literature, exemplifying historical events and bringing the mystery of that history to light. Could this possibly be part of the reason Krakauer felt so compelled to right Into Thin Air?

Roberts is a historian of mountaineering to the finest degree and his account of the 1950 expedition to Everest is truly enlightening of the events that transpired about the oh-so famous climb. In the True Summit, he allowed for several people to claim their glory that they had been denied for fifty years. Unfortunately, most of them never were able to see that glory.

 

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